As areas around the country reopen following months of
lockdowns, people are emerging from their homes with shaggy
hair, translucent skin and claw-like fingernails — and then
rushing to make self-care appointments. “The bathhouse has been
booked out every day that we’ve been open,” said Andrew Nehlig,
the owner of Sauna House, in Asheville, N.C., which reopened
last month.
You might be overdue for some general maintenance, or perhaps
you need to undo some do-it-yourself quarantine beauty
treatments that went awry. Or you might want to catch up with
your stylist or technician. “There’s sort of a shrink
relationship,” said Jane Hong, the chief executive of the
Manhattan nail salon and retailer Paintbox.
“This is why we’re here on earth, not to live in isolation
but to help one another, support one another and speak to one
another.” Perhaps your look affirms your very sense of self: Khane
Kutzwell, whose Brooklyn barber shop, Camera Ready Kutz,
primarily serves the L.G.B.T.Q. community, noted that hair
styling “is a super-duper big thing” for some of her queer and
transgender clients.
Should you decide to venture out, you may be wondering how to
stay safer during a haircut, wax or manicure. “It’s reducing the
risk, not eliminating the risk,” said Wafaa El-Sadr, a professor
of epidemiology and medicine at Columbia University’s Mailman
School of Public Health. “Nobody can tell you it’s safe to do x,
y and z. We can make x, y and z as safe as possible.”
Local safety guidelines, as well as measures adopted by salons
and spas, can help mitigate your chance of contracting or
spreading Covid-19. In some cities, certain services, like
facials and facial waxing, are unavailable. Communal facilities
— like steam rooms, saunas and baths — might be closed, or their
capacities dramatically reduced. Plexiglass barriers may
separate you from the receptionist, people in neighboring chairs
and even your manicurist; ventilation systems may pump filtered
air into the room. The amenities you’re used to — a cup of tea
or snacks — may have disappeared. There will be cleaning
supplies everywhere. (“We could kill pretty much anything that
lives,” said Gabrielle Ophals, a co-founder of the Manhattan spa
Haven.) And everyone will be wearing a mask.
The first thing to ask yourself, according to Celine Gounder, an
infectious disease expert and former assistant health
commissioner for New York City, is
whether there’s still widespread community transmission in
your area.
If there is, she said, “then I think as with anything, whether
it’s school reopenings or nonessential services — and to me,
this is a nonessential service — those need to be shut down
until you can get your community transmission under control.”
Some areas that forged ahead with reopenings are pausing or even
rolling back those plans; in Los Angeles County, personal care
facilities that began operating again in mid-June are now
limited to treating clients outdoors.
Carry hand sanitizer and disinfectant wipes. Some nail salons might ask that you bring your own tools, if you have them — a practice that Dr. Lipner also suggests. (Discard or sanitize them after your manicure.) Most of all, don’t forget your mask, and consider bringing an extra in case it gets wet or dirty during the course of your treatment. If you’re going for a haircut, ensure you have a well-fitting mask that goes behind your ears, rather than around the back of your head. Wearing a mask is, as Dr. Gounder put it, “the No. 1, 2 and 3 most important thing that a client can be doing” to reduce the risk of contracting or spreading Covid-19. A recent, widely cited report by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention underscored this: In Springfield, Mo., two hair stylists continued coming to work, days after they began to feel sick. Together, they exposed 139 people to the virus — none of whom reported symptoms in the two weeks after. Around 98 percent of the clients interviewed by the C.D.C. said they were wearing a mask during their appointments.
Stylists, barbers, estheticians and other personal care
professionals are on the front lines of the pandemic. They work
face-to-face with — and, often, within a couple inches of —
their clients. “The vast majority of people working in these
industries are women, and many of them women of color,” Dr.
Gounder said. (Her new podcast, “Epidemic,” recently aired an
episode on the effect of the pandemic among beauty
professionals.) “So that definitely contributes to exacerbation
of the disparities we’ve seen in terms of who’s affected by
Covid.”
The economic toll of the coronavirus shutdowns has been
especially steep among the small businesses that closed from
March into June and July. So as shops reopen, don’t be surprised
to see higher prices, and be prepared to tip to excess.
As everyone gets accustomed to this new normal, try compassion.
(“We’re nervous, too!” read the website of one Austin nail salon
before reopening in June.) And if you remain uncomfortable with
going out for the sake of your hair, nails or skin, there are
other ways to support your friends in the beauty industry. Shoot
them a Venmo or buy a gift card for a future appointment — and
trim your own bangs.
At Cecconi’s in the Dumbo neighborhood of Brooklyn and in West
Hollywood, Calif., diners are offered more than a grind of fresh
pepper or a spoonful of grated Parmesan with their meal.
On many tables, where you may expect to find a bottle of olive
oil or hot sauce, there’s Amass Botanic Hand Sanitizer, a
spicy-scented cleanser to keep the restaurant’s guests germ
free.
The product is one of a new crop of upscale hand sanitizers,
frequently formulated with refined scents and emollients. Like
the standard versions, these have an alcohol base but aim to
offer a more indulgent experience than, say, a
smear of Purell or a quick rub with a disinfecting wipe.
“This is becoming a quotidian ritual for people, an everyday
thing that’s part of their lives,” said Morgan McLachlan, a
founder and the master distiller at Amass, a Los Angeles company
that focused on spirits before it began producing hand sanitizer
in March. “Why not have it be a pleasurable experience?” The
company’s Botanic Hand Sanitizer is a light liquid that, if
poured into a glass, could be mistaken for gin. The spicy scent,
called Four Thieves, is redolent with clove and cinnamon; it
brings to mind a wintry fruitcake. The name and formula were
inspired by medieval criminals who, according to legend, avoided
contracting the bubonic plague by anointing themselves with a
similar blend of botanicals, Ms. McLachlan said.
A second scent, an herbaceous blend called Basilisk Breath, was
introduced on July 16.
Beauty brands are also introducing hand sanitizers.
Biossance, a popular skin care line, came out with one last month with
moisturizing squalane. The Brooklyn fragrance house DS & Durga
added one with a eucalyptus-based scent to its collection in
April.
The skin care line Peter Thomas Roth unveiled its version in
April; the makeup brand Nudestix introduced hand sanitizer in
June. Shen Beauty, the influential beauty boutique in Brooklyn,
created one it began selling this month.
Predictably, these elevated products come with a commensurate
price tag. At $12 for a two-ounce bottle, the Amass hand sanitizer
costs about eight times as much as a purse-size hand sanitizer at
CVS. On the other hand, Augustinus Bader, the cultish German line
that includes a $165 body cream, has, since May, been offering a
limited supply of the hand sanitizer it created for front line
workers to consumers for free, for a small shipping fee.
Higher prices haven’t necessarily deterred shoppers. March and
April sales of
Jao Brand’s Refresher hand sanitizer, which was introduced in 1997 and costs between $10 and $18,
depending on size, exceeded those for all of last year, according
to a representative of the brand. (Admittedly, one factor of high
sales could be the low supply, at least early in the pandemic, of
traditional hand sanitizers, although some high-end brands have
also sold out of these products over the last couple of
months.)
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, recommends a
minimum concentration of 60 percent alcohol in these products; in
upscale versions, that percentage is often much higher.
You’ve probably heard more about the perils of blue light lately
because our lives are more likely to be lived indoors and online.
Our laptops, phones, tablets, TVs and even LED light bulbs are all
sources of blue light. And now that we’re tethered to those
devices, are we getting drenched? Should we be more worried about
damage to our skin?
Here’s what we know: Compared with the well-understood dangers of
ultraviolet light (skin aging and cancer), science isn’t settled
on the effects of indoor sources of blue light on skin. It can
cause hyperpigmentation and premature aging, but the rest — what
dose of it causes trouble, for instance — was debated well before
we were confined to our homes.
Here, we’ve checked in with some blue light and skin experts to
help us understand the real risks.
When we think about the harmful effects of light, we’re usually
thinking ultraviolet light (UV), which is invisible. But we can
see blue light. You may perceive it as a cool-toned white light
(as with an LED light bulb), or you may not be aware of much blue
at all. That’s because your indoor light sources are emitting
varying wavelengths that combine to create the colors you
perceive.
Though the effects of blue light on the skin are yet to be fully
understood, the light is an important health concern because of
other risks. “Blue light damages the retina and reduces your
excretion of melatonin, so it interrupts your sleep cycle,” said
Michelle Henry, a dermatologist in New York.
Proximity is, of course, a factor when thinking about the danger.
“You’ll get less blue light from your TV than from your computer
because it’s farther away,” Dr. Henry said. “And more light from
your phone than your computer because your phone is so close to
your face.”
While ultraviolet light damages cells’ DNA directly, blue light
destroys collagen through oxidative stress. A chemical in skin
called flavin absorbs blue light. The reaction that takes place
during that absorption produces unstable oxygen molecules (free
radicals) that damage the skin.
“They go in and basically poke holes in your collagen,” Dr. Henry
said.
Exposure to blue light is more problematic for skin of color. In a
2010 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology,
it was shown to cause hyperpigmentation in medium to dark skin,
while leaving lighter skin relatively unaffected.
The medical community categorizes skin color based on how it
reacts to UV light. Type 1 is the lightest color with the most UV
sensitivity. “This would be Nicole Kidman and Conan O’Brien,” said
Mathew M. Avram, the director of the Massachusetts General
Hospital Dermatology Laser and Cosmetic Center in Boston. The
scale goes up to Type 6, which is the darkest and least likely to
burn.
In the 2010 study, Type 2 skin was exposed to blue light but
didn’t develop pigmentation. Skin of color darkened, and that
darkness persisted for a couple of weeks.
“There is something about the pigmentation in Types 4, 5 and 6
that reacts differently than in patients with fair skin,” Dr.
Avram said. “There should be more large-scale studies looking at
this because pigmentation is one of the biggest patient concerns
and the one where treatment creates less patient satisfaction.”