Take care!

source: Photo de Anna Shvets provenant de Pexels

Shed Your Quarantine Skin (and Hair and Nails), Safely

As areas around the country reopen following months of lockdowns, people are emerging from their homes with shaggy hair, translucent skin and claw-like fingernails — and then rushing to make self-care appointments. “The bathhouse has been booked out every day that we’ve been open,” said Andrew Nehlig, the owner of Sauna House, in Asheville, N.C., which reopened last month.
You might be overdue for some general maintenance, or perhaps you need to undo some do-it-yourself quarantine beauty treatments that went awry. Or you might want to catch up with your stylist or technician. “There’s sort of a shrink relationship,” said Jane Hong, the chief executive of the Manhattan nail salon and retailer Paintbox. “This is why we’re here on earth, not to live in isolation but to help one another, support one another and speak to one another.” Perhaps your look affirms your very sense of self: Khane Kutzwell, whose Brooklyn barber shop, Camera Ready Kutz, primarily serves the L.G.B.T.Q. community, noted that hair styling “is a super-duper big thing” for some of her queer and transgender clients.
Should you decide to venture out, you may be wondering how to stay safer during a haircut, wax or manicure. “It’s reducing the risk, not eliminating the risk,” said Wafaa El-Sadr, a professor of epidemiology and medicine at Columbia University’s Mailman School of Public Health. “Nobody can tell you it’s safe to do x, y and z. We can make x, y and z as safe as possible.”

Check the regulations in your area.

Local safety guidelines, as well as measures adopted by salons and spas, can help mitigate your chance of contracting or spreading Covid-19. In some cities, certain services, like facials and facial waxing, are unavailable. Communal facilities — like steam rooms, saunas and baths — might be closed, or their capacities dramatically reduced. Plexiglass barriers may separate you from the receptionist, people in neighboring chairs and even your manicurist; ventilation systems may pump filtered air into the room. The amenities you’re used to — a cup of tea or snacks — may have disappeared. There will be cleaning supplies everywhere. (“We could kill pretty much anything that lives,” said Gabrielle Ophals, a co-founder of the Manhattan spa Haven.) And everyone will be wearing a mask.
The first thing to ask yourself, according to Celine Gounder, an infectious disease expert and former assistant health commissioner for New York City, is whether there’s still widespread community transmission in your area. If there is, she said, “then I think as with anything, whether it’s school reopenings or nonessential services — and to me, this is a nonessential service — those need to be shut down until you can get your community transmission under control.” Some areas that forged ahead with reopenings are pausing or even rolling back those plans; in Los Angeles County, personal care facilities that began operating again in mid-June are now limited to treating clients outdoors.

Bring your own supplies, especially your mask.

Carry hand sanitizer and disinfectant wipes. Some nail salons might ask that you bring your own tools, if you have them — a practice that Dr. Lipner also suggests. (Discard or sanitize them after your manicure.) Most of all, don’t forget your mask, and consider bringing an extra in case it gets wet or dirty during the course of your treatment. If you’re going for a haircut, ensure you have a well-fitting mask that goes behind your ears, rather than around the back of your head. Wearing a mask is, as Dr. Gounder put it, “the No. 1, 2 and 3 most important thing that a client can be doing” to reduce the risk of contracting or spreading Covid-19. A recent, widely cited report by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention underscored this: In Springfield, Mo., two hair stylists continued coming to work, days after they began to feel sick. Together, they exposed 139 people to the virus — none of whom reported symptoms in the two weeks after. Around 98 percent of the clients interviewed by the C.D.C. said they were wearing a mask during their appointments.

Be patient — and tip handsomely.

Stylists, barbers, estheticians and other personal care professionals are on the front lines of the pandemic. They work face-to-face with — and, often, within a couple inches of — their clients. “The vast majority of people working in these industries are women, and many of them women of color,” Dr. Gounder said. (Her new podcast, “Epidemic,” recently aired an episode on the effect of the pandemic among beauty professionals.) “So that definitely contributes to exacerbation of the disparities we’ve seen in terms of who’s affected by Covid.”
The economic toll of the coronavirus shutdowns has been especially steep among the small businesses that closed from March into June and July. So as shops reopen, don’t be surprised to see higher prices, and be prepared to tip to excess.
As everyone gets accustomed to this new normal, try compassion. (“We’re nervous, too!” read the website of one Austin nail salon before reopening in June.) And if you remain uncomfortable with going out for the sake of your hair, nails or skin, there are other ways to support your friends in the beauty industry. Shoot them a Venmo or buy a gift card for a future appointment — and trim your own bangs.

These Hand Sanitizers Smell Good, Kill Germs


At Cecconi’s in the Dumbo neighborhood of Brooklyn and in West Hollywood, Calif., diners are offered more than a grind of fresh pepper or a spoonful of grated Parmesan with their meal.
On many tables, where you may expect to find a bottle of olive oil or hot sauce, there’s Amass Botanic Hand Sanitizer, a spicy-scented cleanser to keep the restaurant’s guests germ free.
The product is one of a new crop of upscale hand sanitizers, frequently formulated with refined scents and emollients. Like the standard versions, these have an alcohol base but aim to offer a more indulgent experience than, say, a smear of Purell or a quick rub with a disinfecting wipe.
“This is becoming a quotidian ritual for people, an everyday thing that’s part of their lives,” said Morgan McLachlan, a founder and the master distiller at Amass, a Los Angeles company that focused on spirits before it began producing hand sanitizer in March. “Why not have it be a pleasurable experience?” The company’s Botanic Hand Sanitizer is a light liquid that, if poured into a glass, could be mistaken for gin. The spicy scent, called Four Thieves, is redolent with clove and cinnamon; it brings to mind a wintry fruitcake. The name and formula were inspired by medieval criminals who, according to legend, avoided contracting the bubonic plague by anointing themselves with a similar blend of botanicals, Ms. McLachlan said.
A second scent, an herbaceous blend called Basilisk Breath, was introduced on July 16.
Beauty brands are also introducing hand sanitizers. Biossance, a popular skin care line, came out with one last month with moisturizing squalane. The Brooklyn fragrance house DS & Durga added one with a eucalyptus-based scent to its collection in April.

The skin care line Peter Thomas Roth unveiled its version in April; the makeup brand Nudestix introduced hand sanitizer in June. Shen Beauty, the influential beauty boutique in Brooklyn, created one it began selling this month.
Predictably, these elevated products come with a commensurate price tag. At $12 for a two-ounce bottle, the Amass hand sanitizer costs about eight times as much as a purse-size hand sanitizer at CVS. On the other hand, Augustinus Bader, the cultish German line that includes a $165 body cream, has, since May, been offering a limited supply of the hand sanitizer it created for front line workers to consumers for free, for a small shipping fee.
Higher prices haven’t necessarily deterred shoppers. March and April sales of Jao Brand’s Refresher hand sanitizer, which was introduced in 1997 and costs between $10 and $18, depending on size, exceeded those for all of last year, according to a representative of the brand. (Admittedly, one factor of high sales could be the low supply, at least early in the pandemic, of traditional hand sanitizers, although some high-end brands have also sold out of these products over the last couple of months.)
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, recommends a minimum concentration of 60 percent alcohol in these products; in upscale versions, that percentage is often much higher.

What Is All of That Screen Time Doing to Your Skin?

You’ve probably heard more about the perils of blue light lately because our lives are more likely to be lived indoors and online. Our laptops, phones, tablets, TVs and even LED light bulbs are all sources of blue light. And now that we’re tethered to those devices, are we getting drenched? Should we be more worried about damage to our skin?
Here’s what we know: Compared with the well-understood dangers of ultraviolet light (skin aging and cancer), science isn’t settled on the effects of indoor sources of blue light on skin. It can cause hyperpigmentation and premature aging, but the rest — what dose of it causes trouble, for instance — was debated well before we were confined to our homes.
Here, we’ve checked in with some blue light and skin experts to help us understand the real risks.

What is blue light?

When we think about the harmful effects of light, we’re usually thinking ultraviolet light (UV), which is invisible. But we can see blue light. You may perceive it as a cool-toned white light (as with an LED light bulb), or you may not be aware of much blue at all. That’s because your indoor light sources are emitting varying wavelengths that combine to create the colors you perceive.
Though the effects of blue light on the skin are yet to be fully understood, the light is an important health concern because of other risks. “Blue light damages the retina and reduces your excretion of melatonin, so it interrupts your sleep cycle,” said Michelle Henry, a dermatologist in New York.
Proximity is, of course, a factor when thinking about the danger. “You’ll get less blue light from your TV than from your computer because it’s farther away,” Dr. Henry said. “And more light from your phone than your computer because your phone is so close to your face.”

How does blue light damage my skin?

While ultraviolet light damages cells’ DNA directly, blue light destroys collagen through oxidative stress. A chemical in skin called flavin absorbs blue light. The reaction that takes place during that absorption produces unstable oxygen molecules (free radicals) that damage the skin.
“They go in and basically poke holes in your collagen,” Dr. Henry said.
Exposure to blue light is more problematic for skin of color. In a 2010 study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, it was shown to cause hyperpigmentation in medium to dark skin, while leaving lighter skin relatively unaffected.
The medical community categorizes skin color based on how it reacts to UV light. Type 1 is the lightest color with the most UV sensitivity. “This would be Nicole Kidman and Conan O’Brien,” said Mathew M. Avram, the director of the Massachusetts General Hospital Dermatology Laser and Cosmetic Center in Boston. The scale goes up to Type 6, which is the darkest and least likely to burn.
In the 2010 study, Type 2 skin was exposed to blue light but didn’t develop pigmentation. Skin of color darkened, and that darkness persisted for a couple of weeks.
“There is something about the pigmentation in Types 4, 5 and 6 that reacts differently than in patients with fair skin,” Dr. Avram said. “There should be more large-scale studies looking at this because pigmentation is one of the biggest patient concerns and the one where treatment creates less patient satisfaction.”

We checked in with experts to learn about the risks of indoor light and how we can protect ourselves.

source: Photo by Coline Haslé on Unsplash